Random stuff for later reference.

[Furinox]

I'm just posting some stuff up here for later reference that I've found on other forums for when I do the swap.

***************

Once all that is hooked up you can hook up your i/c pump pigtail. One wire I grounded right above the air filter where there's already a ground wire.

The other wire I soldiered into the wiring harness back by the firewall in the passenger side. It's the all RED wire on top towards the front of the car. Put some heat shrink over it and tape it up real good.

Since were on wiring let's finish all of it up.

Grab your maf meter connector and cut the two outside wires as close to the connection as you can get. Get the iat sensor connector and use those two wires and soldier them to that connection. It will get plugged into the cai tube.

*OPTION* If you can get the connector for the iat2 sensor on the back of the s/c you will use the two wires closer to the s/c(the inside wires) and soldier them into the two wire cut from the maf connection. Grey with red goes to the wire closest to the blower (SIG RTN). The all grey wire goes to the 2nd wire from the blower(IAT2). It reads temperature post blower which they say will help get a safer tune from.

The alternator pigtail that I got came with about a foot of wire. I cut the 3 wires about 5" shorter.

Those 3 wires, I used to extend my IAC valve harness. Without them your about 3" too short. It's a simple cut and soldier procedure. Just don't get the wires criss crossed. When you soldier the new wires in make sure you get the same colors soldiered back together.

You will need to get some more wire to extend the dpfe sensor that is on the drivers side of the s/c. Same thing like the IAC, don't get the wires criss crossed.

What I did to get enough wire for the alt. was splice open the harness where the wires were in down to corner of the block and head by the upper alternator bracket. Pulled the wires out to there and used some electrical tape to tape up the old harness and run it back like it belongs.

Be real careful when doing this alternator wiring. I will try and get a pic of it, but the wires can go a few different way's. If not hooked up properly you will run into problems. The middle wire from the pigtail is not used since the white wire is a dead wire.

**************

[Furinox]

2r3z6312baa - Crank pulley /Harmonic Balancer
f1az6378a - washer for balancer
f5rz6a340b - bolt for balancer
2r3z6312ba - Supercharger Crank drive pulley
2r3z10153ca - Bracket that replaces stk. alt. on 99-01 Cobra’s and 03/04 Mach 1’s (Comes w/ pulley below if bought used)
yw7z8678aa - pulley for above bracket
2r3z6b209bc - Pulley bridge assembly for S.C. (If bought new it comes with the bridge, 2 idlers and tensioner)
(8678B) Idler pulley,timing cover pass. side
yw7z8678aa - pulley on drivers side of timing cover
(6D080) Timing cover (if bought new, it comes w/ pulley on drivers side and tensioner)
s5az6700a - timing cover seal
(10A313) Upper alternator bracket
(10153) Lower alternator bracket
(10346) Alternator
1U2Z-14S411-TA Electrical connector (alt. to harmness )
(6B209A) Tensioner on timing cover
2r3z8260ab - Radiator hose
2r3z8a593ab - Radiator hose
2r3z8k576aa - Radiator hose
2r3z8548aa - Water cross over pipe
(6881) Cobra oil cooler adapter
(6A642) Cobra Oil cooler
2r3z9002aa - Cobra fuel tank (optional)
2r3z9h307ab - Cobra fuel pump (optional)
2r3z6f066aa - Eaton supercharger
2r3z9424bb - Lower intake
(6K775) Garrett factory intercooler
3U2Z-14S411-SSA IAT2 sensor connector
2r3z9n491ca - Intercooler hard lines that hug the block (If bought new, it comes w/ part # 9l443c)
(9N491A) Intercooler hard lines that come from the h/e
3r3z9l443aa - Intercooler line that goes from the i/c adapter to i/c res.
2r3z9l443ba - Intercooler line that goes from the i/c adapter to the hard lines that hug the block
2r3z9l443ca - Intercooler line that goes from the hard line against the block to i/c pump(included w/ the hard line that hugs the block if purchased new)
2r3z9l443da - Intercooler line that goes from hard line to hard line
2r3z9l443ea - Intercooler line that goes from hard line from h/e to i/c pump
2r3z9l443fa - Intercooler line that goes from hard line and connects to h/e
2r3z9l443ga - Intercooler line that goes from hard line and connects to h/e
f8yz8501aa - Ford / Bosche water pump for intercooler
2r3z8n500ac - Intercooler pump bracket
2r3z8k226aa - Factory heat exchanger
2r3z8a193aa - Heat exchanger mounting bracket
2r3z8c386aa - 2each bracket clamps for h/e
(9N491B) Lower manifold to intercooler water adapter
2r3z9a589ca - Plenum
(9B659) Intake tube from maf to t/b.
(9F715) IAC valve
2r3z9f593ba - Injectors
(6F089) Boost bypass actuator
2r3z9a825aa - Cruise control cable
2r3z9a758aa - Throttle cable
(9728) Throttle and cruise control cable mounting bracket
1l3z12b579aa - MAF
xw4z9d475ab - EGR valve
2r3z9d477ad - EGR tube
(6C324) PCV tubing
(9F479) Sensor on the back of the S/C
(9J432) Bracket for vacuum stuff on left side of the S/C
(9H465) Vacuum stuff
(9J459) Vacuum stuff
(9J460) Vacuum stuff
(9E498) Hose's or tube cluster of connectors for the vacuum parts above
e83z9f670a IAC gasket
2r3z6020aa - Timing cover gasket LH side
2r3z6020ba -Timing cover gasket middle
2r3z6020ca - Timing cover gasket RH side
2r3z9h486aa - Lower intake to S.C. gasket
2r3z9l437bb - Plenum to S/C gasket
e6az9d476b - EGR gasket
2r3z3490aa - Power steering resevoir bracket.
I/C resivoir tank
i/c pigtail
S/C 8 rib belt
inner acc. belt.
n804178s309 - ( Nuts for plenum, coolant crossover and pulley bridge can be picked up at local auto parts store in help section.
n805164437 - (1) Bolt for pulley cage to timing cover.
n808102s437 - bolt that is used on the idlers and pulleys. Only need if you buy parts seperately. You will need a total of at least 6 of these.
n808920s437 - Pulley bridge bolts
n606677-s36 (4) Bolts to bolt the bracket clamps to the h/e bracket
N605909s437 - (4) bolts for the upper alt. bracket
n807274s437 (1) lower alt. bracket to alt bolt
n811313s431 (4) studs to bolt plenum to s/c
w506404s437 (10) i/c to s/c bolts

[Furinox]

Once all that is hooked up you can hook up your i/c pump pigtail. One wire I grounded right above the air filter where there's already a ground wire.

The other wire I soldiered into the wiring harness back by the firewall in the passenger side. It's the all RED wire on top towards the front of the car. Put some heat shrink over it and tape it up real good.

Since were on wiring let's finish all of it up.

Grab your maf meter connector and cut the two outside wires as close to the connection as you can get. Get the iat sensor connector and use those two wires and soldier them to that connection. It will get plugged into the cai tube.

*OPTION* If you can get the connector for the iat2 sensor on the back of the s/c you will use the two wires closer to the s/c(the inside wires) and soldier them into the two wire cut from the maf connection. Grey with red goes to the wire closest to the blower (SIG RTN). The all grey wire goes to the 2nd wire from the blower(IAT2). It reads temperature post blower which they say will help get a safer tune from.

The alternator pigtail that I got came with about a foot of wire. I cut the 3 wires about 5" shorter.

Those 3 wires, I used to extend my IAC valve harness. Without them your about 3" too short. It's a simple cut and soldier procedure. Just don't get the wires criss crossed. When you soldier the new wires in make sure you get the same colors soldiered back together.

You will need to get some more wire to extend the dpfe sensor that is on the drivers side of the s/c. Same thing like the IAC, don't get the wires criss crossed.

What I did to get enough wire for the alt. was splice open the harness where the wires were in down to corner of the block and head by the upper alternator bracket. Pulled the wires out to there and used some electrical tape to tape up the old harness and run it back like it belongs.

Be real careful when doing this alternator wiring. I will try and get a pic of it, but the wires can go a few different way's. If not hooked up properly you will run into problems. The middle wire from the pigtail is not used since the white wire is a dead wire.

[KWClutch]

Lol I had those diagrams on hand all the time.

[thatdavidkid]

Aha!!! That's why your guages didn't work, you were trying to swap an eaton onto Mach but you have a 98 cobra.... Man what a goofy mistake... Lol